I still remember when my aunt gave me my first real surfboard. I was 10 years old—skinny, small, and completely intimidated by the huge 6'6" board she handed me. Every time I paddled out, I felt like a kook. Back then, I didn't even know that word existed. In fact, I don't think people used it in Brazil at the time or today…
The funny thing is, decades later, I still feel like that same kook.
I've been surfing for almost 30 years, but for much of that time I lived four hours from the beach in Brazil and only surfed during holidays. When I moved to California, and settled in Hermosa Beach more than 13 years ago, I finally started surfing regularly. My skills have improved, and I have gained confidence in the water.
Yet somehow, I still feel like that little 50-pound kid trying to manage a mini gun that was way too big. And honestly, I think a lot of surfers feel the same way.
As humans, we need a connection with nature, especially in today's world. Surfing gives us a chance to reconnect—with the ocean, with ourselves, and with other people. It helps us unplug, relax, and have fun. Even when Surfline is calling for a disappointing 1-2 feet with poor conditions, once you're on the water, surfers rarely regret paddling out - experienced or not!
That's why Celina's idea for this company resonated with me immediately. Everyone has to start somewhere. As long as you're respectful, polite, and having fun, you belong in the water. The surf community has an opportunity to evolve—to become more welcoming, more supportive, and more inclusive.
The ocean is for everyone.
The water is for everyone.
And, at the end of the day, we're all kooks.
Stay Kooky,
